The part of the plant that
is used for tequila is the heart (root), or piña (also called the head, or cabeza), which looks like a large
pineapple or pinecone. It starts underground, but soon pushes its way into the light. A
mature piña usually weighs 80 to
more than 300 pounds (although most are under 200 pounds). Even 500-lb. piñas have been
cultivated in the highlands, although they are rare. |
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(Courtesy of
the website of Ian Chadwick)
"Tequila is Mexico," said Carmelita
Roman, widow of the late tequila producer Jesus Lopez Roman in an interview after her
husband's murder. "It's the only product that identifies us as a culture."
No other drink is surrounded
by as many stories, myths, legends and lore as tequila and its companion, mezcal. They
transcend simple definition by reaching into the heart of Mexico, past and present. The
turbulent history of Mexico is paralleled in the stories of tequila and mezcal. One cannot
fully appreciate Mexico without some understanding of tequila's place in its history and
culture.
 Tequila is an alcoholic drink made in
the arid highlands of central Mexico, from fermented and distilled sap of the agave (also called a maguey),
an indigenous plant (a succulent, not a cactus). Archeologists say the agave has been
cultivated for at least 9,000 years. ‘Tequila wine’ was first made by the
Conquistadors, who distilled a native drink called pulque into a stronger spirit. In the 400 years following the Conquest,
tequila has become an icon of Mexican nationality, pride and culture, recognized
worldwide. Today, most of it is made in Jalisco state around the town of Tequila.
In Tequila: Panegyric and
Emblem, the Mexican poet Alvaro Mutis wrote:
Tequila has no history;there are
no anecdotes confirming its birth.
This is how it’s been since the beginning of time, for tequila is a gift from the
gods
and they don’t tend to offer fables when bestowing favors.
That is the job of mortals, the children of panic and tradition.
Translated by Mark Schafer.
From issue 27, Artes de México magazine.
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 The agave plant takes at least eight years to reach the
stage where it is suitable for fermentation and may be left for up to 12 before
harvesting; the more mature, the better its natural sugars (agave
sazon means ripened). During this time it is pruned (barbeo), cutting the points of the
leaves with machetes to encourage the piña to grow. Some farmers also use a technique
called 'shotgun plowing' (barbeo de escopeta) to induce premature ripening of plants, but most fields are hand grown
and cultivated, using traditional methods passed down from generation to generation.
Modern producers often spray agave fields with fertilizers and pesticides. Most use farm
hands to meticulously control the weeds by hand. Fields are not irrigated; the plants
depend entirely on the rainy season for moisture. Experiments with irrigation showed the
larger plants that resulted did not produce any more agave sugars. |
 The official Tequila
Regulatory Council (Consejo Regulado de Tequila, CRT, founded in 1994) site is at www.crt.org.mx/.
This is essentially the same organization originally founded in 1933 under a different
name, but which dissolved during the war years. Their Spanish component is significantly
more comprehensive than their English pages on this site. New NORMS for tequila were
scheduled for 1999. Story in Publico at: publi.com/news/1998/1119/e04.htm.
And a story about upcoming changes in the Denomination of Origin: publi.com/news/1998/0522/e04.htm
The DGN is online at: www.secofi.gob.mx/normas/promocio/balance.html
in the site of the Industrial Secretariat at: www.secofi.gob.mx/.
Check out the various list of producers and brands (NOM lists) at www.foodshow.com/(VIgSITOR)/news/may2.htm
and www.jps.net/keiran/nom1.htm (his
sorted list is at www.jps.net/keiran/nomsort.htm)
and for the most complete, official listing of NOMs and marcas (brands - more than 500) go
here: www.crt.org.mx/DOC/!marcas.htm. The
Camara Regional de la Industria
Tequila, or Regional Chamber of the Tequila Industry, is an
organization composed of industry members, and based in Guadalajara. It does not have a
separate web site (yet) but is listed here: concamin.org.mx/regionales.html.
Here's a partial list of tequila producers: www.tradeport.org/ts/countries/mexico/mrr/mark0240.html
There is an association of agricultural producers in Jalisco
(including tequila farmers and manufacturers) with a site at www.funprojal.org.mx/
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